![]() Peel off the side with the paper on it, and press the hem allowance down. Cut off a 5 cm (2") section and attach it on the wrong side of the hem allowance just on the edge or just below the over locked edge. It is now time to attach the double sided tape. I do this when I am securing a lined jacket sleeve or hem.ĭo this on every seam all the way around the hem allowance. If you try and drop the hem now, you will find that you can't because it is held in place by your stitching. I find it best to sew from the fold 3/4 up to the edge of the hem allowance. Slip your fingers down into the hem allowance and take hold of the two seams. When you ironed up the hem, the hem folds back on itself, and the seam allowance butted into itself. To ensure that the hem does not drop, join the seams that butt each other at the hem allowance.įor example - the centre back seam. Over lock the edge, or lay tape, lace or ribbon over the raw edge and stitch. Take a good look at the way it was cut before, and repeat this practice (only shorter) You will notice that the front panels will be cut close to the seam, yet you have to leave a good hem allowance in the section past the front encased panels. Be very careful that you only cut up to BUT NOT INCLUDING the hem allowance on the coat. With the two front panels stitched, you will need to cut off the excess. This way you can use the existing example of how they cut the hem, except you cut on the new cut line (which includes your hem allowance) Hint - BEFORE you cut your hem, always bag the front panels. When you shorten a coat, the two front panels can be marked up the amount the coat is being shortened, marking from the original stitch line and up the new length, then down your seam allowance. In this case it was going up 4 cm (1 1/2") from the original seam. By leaving the front panels bagged, and just flipping them inside out, you have that reference point you need. I was fortunate that the original stitching for the hem was the exact amount I was shortening the coat, so I flipped the front panels inside out and bagged the two front panels. Leave them stitched, because this stitching is your reference point. This needs to be enough so that you can get into the inside of the panels to bag.ĭo not unpick the two front panels at the bottom seam. The lining needs to be unpicked up the panel. Preparation - I unpicked the existing hem. You can buy this tape in a variety of widths, but I prefer the thin 12 mm (1/2") width for my purposes. When I lived in Sydney I purchased from a sail maker down there. I have one who operates in the industrial section not far from where I live. ![]() This tape is not your normal double sided tape that you use to put pictures on the walls. I could not hand stitch the hem, so that left my trusty double sided tape. I was unable to use my blind hemming machine, in case it marked the outer fabric, and you would have seen every stitch. The maximum a fabric can be treated is 3 passes. It blocks out any light keeping my bedroom very dark. My own curtains have been treated twice which is typically called "2 pass coated". The fabric is then fused dry by a heated roller. They coat the fabric with a liquefied rubber polymer in a single coat to an uncoated fabric. Note - You may have noticed this technique used on curtains. This can be a challenge when the fabric is a polyester which has been treated with an opaque rubber backing on the back of the fabric. The lining was not attached to the hem.Įveryone has a quirk and my client's quirk is that she does not want to see any stitching on hems, which means they have to be done as a blind hem or in such a way as it will not be noticed. The coat was lined, and the two front sections were bagged back with the lining attached at the end of the front facing. The sleeves needed to be shortened 3 cm (1 1/4") and the length up one hem length. She wanted the sleeves and hem shortened. I always use it on leather in the following fashion, however this story is about one of my customers who had a coat and the fabric had been coated (like curtains). ![]() It can be used to hem garments made from leather or other similar mediums.
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